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PARABENS

Parabens are preservatives used in a wide variety of personal care products and foods to prevent the growth of microbes. These endocrine-disrupting chemicals can be absorbed through skin, blood and the digestive system.[1] 

FOUND IN: Shampoos, conditioners, lotions, facial and shower cleansers and scrubs

WHAT TO LOOK FOR ON THE LABEL:  Ethylparaben, butylparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben, isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben, other ingredients ending in –paraben

WHAT ARE PARABENS? Parabens are actually several distinct chemicals with a similar molecular structure. Several are common in a wide array cosmetic and personal care products: ethylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben, methylparaben and propylparaben.MORE...

HEALTH CONCERNS: Endocrine disruption, cancer, developmental and reproductive toxicity MORE...

VULNERABLE POPULATIONS: Pregnant women and young children

REGULATIONS: Some forms of parabens are banned in Denmark (propyl and butyl paraben, their isoforms and their salts) in cosmetics products for children up to 3 years.[2]

HOW TO AVOID: Look for products labeled “paraben-free” and read ingredient lists on labels to avoid products with parabens. Many natural and organic cosmetics manufacturers have found effective alternatives to parabens to prevent microbial growth in personal care products. Some companies have created preservative-free products that have shorter shelf lives than conventional products (six months to a year). 

References

[1] Gray, J. State of the Evidence: The Connection between Breast Cancer and the Environment, 2008.

[2] Danish Ministry of the Environment-Environmental Protection Agency. Statutory order on restriction on import, sale and use of certain parabens in cosmetic products for children under 3 years. Available online: http://eng.mst.dk/media/mst/Attachments/Engelskparabenbekendtgrelse.pdf August 12, 2014.

[3] Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Final amended report on the safety assessment of methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, isopropylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, and benzyparaben as used in cosmetic products. International Journal of Toxicology, vol. 27, no. 4, pp 1-82, 2008. Available online: http://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/paraben_build.pdf August 12, 2014.

[4] Ye X., et al., Parabens as urinary biomarkers of exposure in humans. Environmental Health Perspectives, vol. 114, pp 1843-1846, 2006.

[5] Calafat AM., et al., Urinary concentrations of four parabens in the U.S. Population: NHANES 2005-2006. Environ Health Persp, vol. 118, no. 5, pp 679–685, 2010.

[6] Darbre PD, et al.,  Concentrations of parabens in human breast tumors. Journal of Applied Toxicology, vol.  24, pp 5-13, 2004.

[7] Barr L., et al., Measurement of paraben concentrations in human breast tissue at serial locations across the breast from axilla to sternum. J Appl Toxicol, vol. 32, no. 3, pp 219–232, 2012.

[8] Prusakiewicz JJ., et al., Parabens inhibit human skin estrogen sulfotransferase activity: Possible link to paraben estrogenic effects. Toxicology, vol. 232, pp 248-56, 2007.

[9] Darbre PD., et al., Paraben esters: review of recent studies of endocrine toxicity, absorption, esterase and human exposure, and discussion of potential human health risks. Journal of Applied Toxicology, 2008.

[10] Prusakiewicz JJ., et al., Parabens inhibit human skin estrogen sulfotransferase activity: Possible link to paraben estrogenic effects. Toxicology, vol. 232, pp 248-56, 2007.

[11] Darbre PD., et a., Paraben esters: review of recent studies of endocrine toxicity, absorption, esterase and human exposure, and discussion of potential human health risks. Journal of Applied Toxicology, 2008.

[12] Golden R., et al., A review of the endocrine activity of parabens and implications for potential risks to human health. Critical Reviews in Toxicology, vol. 35, pp 435-58, 2005.

[13] Dabre PD., et al., Oestrogenic activity of isobutylparaben in vitro and in vivo. Journal of Applied Toxicology, vol. 22, no. 4, pp 219-26. 2002.

[14] Oishi S., Effects of butylparaben on the male reproductive system in rats. Toxicology and Industrial Health, vol 17, pp 31-9, 2001.

[15] Kawaguchi M., et al., Maternal isobutyl-paraben exposure decreased the plasma corticosterone level in dams and sensitivity to estrogen in female offspring rats. J. Vet. Med. Sci., vol. 71, no. 8, pp 1027-33, 2009.

[16] Oishi S., Effects of butylparaben on the male reproductive system in rats. Toxicology and Industrial Health, vol 17, pp 31-9, 2001.

[17] Darbre PD., et a., Paraben esters: review of recent studies of endocrine toxicity, absorption, esterase and human exposure, and discussion of potential human health risks. Journal of Applied Toxicology, 2008.

[18] Prusakiewicz JJ., et al., Parabens inhibit human skin estrogen sulfotransferase activity: Possible link to paraben estrogenic effects. Toxicology, vol. 232, pp 248-56, 2007.

[19] The Endocrine Disruption Exchange (TEDX). Methyl paraben. Available online: http://endocrinedisruption.org/popup-chemical-details?chemid=667 August 7, 2014.

[20] The Endocrine Disruption Exchange (TEDX). Ethyl paraben. Available online: http://endocrinedisruption.org/popup-chemical-details?chemid=573 August 7, 2014.

[21] The Endocrine Disruption Exchange (TEDX). Propyl paraben. Available online: http://endocrinedisruption.org/popup-chemical-details?chemid=795 August 7, 2014.

[22] The Endocrine Disruption Exchange (TEDX). Butyl paraben. Available online:

http://endocrinedisruption.org/popup-chemical-details?chemid=441 August 7, 2014.

[23] The Endocrine Disruption Exchange (TEDX). Isopropyl paraben. Available online: http://endocrinedisruption.org/popup-chemical-details?chemid=916 August 7, 2014.

[24] The Endocrine Disruption Exchange (TEDX). Isobutyl paraben. Available online: http://endocrinedisruption.org/popup-chemical-details?chemid=915 August 7, 2014.

[25] Darbre PD., et a., Paraben esters: review of recent studies of endocrine toxicity, absorption, esterase and human exposure, and discussion of potential human health risks. Journal of Applied Toxicology, 2008.

[26] Ishiwatari S., et al., Effects of methyl paraben on skin keratinocytes. J. Appl. Toxicol, vol 27, pp 1-9, 2007.

[27] Ishiwatari S., et al., Effects of methyl paraben on skin keratinocytes. J. Appl. Toxicol, vol 27, pp 1-9, 2007.

[28] Darbre PD., et a., Paraben esters: review of recent studies of endocrine toxicity, absorption, esterase and human exposure, and discussion of potential human health risks. Journal of Applied Toxicology, 2008.

[29] Oishi S.,Lack of spermatotoxic effects of methyl and ethyl esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid in rats. Food and Chemical Toxicology, vol. 42, pp 1845-49, 2004.

[30] Taxvig C., et al., Do parabens have the ability to interfere with steroidogenesis? Toxicological Sciences, vol. 106, no. 1, pp 206-13, 2008.

[31] Taxvig C., et al., Do parabens have the ability to interfere with steroidogenesis? Toxicological Sciences, vol. 106, no. 1, pp 206-13, 2008.

[32] Oishi S., Effects of butylparaben on the male reproductive system in rats. Toxicology and Industrial Health, vol 17, pp 31-9, 2001.

[33] Kang KS., et al., Decreased sperm number and motile activity on the F1 offspring maternally exposed to butyl p-hydroxybenzoic acid (butyl paraben). J. Vet. Med. Sci., vol. 64, no. 3, pp 227-35, 2002.

[34] Oishi S., Effects of butylparaben on the male reproductive system in rats. Toxicology and Industrial Health, vol 17, pp 31-9, 2001.

[35] Taxvig C., et al., Do parabens have the ability to interfere with steroidogenesis? Toxicological Sciences, vol. 106, no. 1, pp 206-13, 2008.

[36] Kawaguchi M., et al., Maternal isobutyl-paraben exposure decreased the plasma corticosterone level in dams and sensitivity to estrogen in female offspring rats. J. Vet. Med. Sci., vol. 71, no. 8, pp 1027-33, 2009.

[37] Kawaguchi M., et al., Maternal isobutyl-paraben exposure alters anxiety and passive avoidance test performance in adult male rats. Neuroscience Research, vol. 65, no. 2, pp 136-40, 2009.

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Banishing and Preventing Blackheads

There’s nothing as unsightly on your face as a large blackhead – with the exception of a large whitehead. Both these blemishes result from clogged pores, but the blackhead occurs because the oil and dead skin cells are exposed to the air, forming the dark plug. A whitehead – the classic “zit” – is not open to the air, and the gunk is beneath the skin. While you’re tempted to pop either type to get rid of them, resist the temptation. 

That can cause infection and scarring. As with most issues in life, prevention is easier than the cure. Remember the first rule of skincare: Never go to bed with your makeup on. Blackhead Prevention -

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FITZPATRICK SCALE

 FITZPATRICK SCALE 

The Fitzpatrick scale was created in 1975 to classify skin types based on the amount of pigment in your skin and how it reacts to ultraviolet light.
•There are many various varieties of skin, and I adapt each laser treatment to your skin type based on where you fall on the spectrum.

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6 TEA DRINKING MISTAKES YOU Are MAKING // TEA

THIS COULD CHANGE YOUR WHOLE FACE

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 Studies have linked tea to a lower chance of getting certain types of cancers, type 2 diabetes, Parkinson’s, and heart disease. https://wb.md/3DDAWba

Alternatives to hydroquinone

Most of the safe alternatives to hydroquinone impact the key enzyme, tyrosinase, that mediates two key steps in melanoge­nesis. See Key Steps in Melanin Biosynthesis.

Key ingredients. There are several ingredients that inhibit the tyrosinase enzyme, as well as compete with the enzyme’s substrate, L-3,4-dihydrox­yphenylalanine (L-DOPA). Botanical extracts, such as Ferula foetida (giant fennel), bearberry, licorice, Sophora angustifolia, kiwi fruit, nasturtium, rumex (yellow dock), Phyllanthus emblica fruit and mulberry contain bioflavonoid components similar in chemical structure to L-DOPA, the end product of Step 1, illustrated in Key Steps in Melanin Biosynthesis. The bioflavonoids compete with the substrate L-DOPA, thereby preventing Step 2, also illustrated in the diagram, from occurring.

Tyrosinase inhibitors. Tyrosinase inhibitors also exist, such as hydroxyc­innamic acid, gluconic acid, zinc glycinate, kojic acid, aspergillus ferment, rumex extract and ergothio­neine, that chelate or bind copper, a cofactor required in Step 2 of the diagram. Binding the copper inhibits this reaction from occurring and controls melanin formation.

Hydroxy acids. Although the use of hydroxy acids—lactic acid, glycolic acid and salicylic acid—in skin-brightening products has generally been utilized to accelerate desquamation and removal of melanin-containing corneocytes, it has recently been shown that a 5% concentration of lactic acid will inhibit the formation of the tyrosinase enzyme, thereby slowing the process of melanin synthesis. Other exfoliating agents used in brightening products include pumpkin enzyme, sutilains (a protease enzyme), lactobacillus ferment and galactoa­rabian, a molecule that stimulates natural desquamation in the skin.

Controlling inflammation. Controlling inflammation is another strategy for treating hyperpig­mentation. The use of anti-inflammatory agents, such as white tea, licorice and green tea, helps address the connection between inflammation and pigment formation. These extracts also may act as antioxidants, slowing many of the oxidation steps involved in melanin formation.

Melanin formation. Of particular interest are ingredients that impact melanin formation in multiple ways. An example is zinc glycinate, which stimulates synthesis of an antioxidant protein called metallot­hionein that binds the copper and reduces tyrosinase synthesis and activity; in addition, it suppresses melanocyte growth factors that stimulate melanin synthesis. Niacinamide has been shown to stop the transfer of melanosomes to neighboring keratino­cytes. Glucosamine and dithiooc­tanediol stop the activation of the tyrosinase enzyme, a step that involves glycosyl­ation, or the addition of a sugar molecule to the inactive proenzyme structure, converting it to the activated enzyme. Obviously, if the enzyme remains inactive, melanin formation ceases.

New studies indicate that melanin formation can also be controlled by affecting the signaling process involved in melanin biosynthesis. Sunscreens and anti-inflammatory agents work by turning off the messengers that signal melanin synthesis to commence. A brown seaweed called Ascophyllum nodosum has been shown to inhibit endothelin-1 (ET-1), a molecule synthesized and released from the keratinocytes after UV exposure. ET-1 stimulates the melanocyte and triggers tyrosinase activity. When the signal molecule ET-1 is inhibited, melanin formation is likewise inhibited. In a similar role, the use of Palmaria palmata, a red algae, has been shown to inhibit the release of stem cell factor (SCF), another signaling molecule released by keratinocytes upon exposure to UVB radiation; SCF activates the melanocyte to make melanin. Palmaria palmata inhibits the release of SCF and therefore inhibits melanocyte activation.

In the past decade, ascorbic acid (vitamin C) has been used to control melanin synthesis. Newer stabilized derivatives of vitamin C include magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), ascorbyl glucoside and tetrahex­yldecyl ascorbate. These derivatives scavenge free radicals that cause erratic melanocyte activity, as well as act as antioxidants inhibiting oxidation steps along the biosynthetic pathway of melanin. They have also been shown to inhibit tyrosinase synthesis and activity.

Finally, the newest and perhaps most exciting agents to fight melanin formation are the peptides. Oligopeptide-34 is a state-of-the-art synthesized peptide that has been shown to decrease alpha-MSH activity and inhibit tyrosinase activity. Although the mechanism is not clearly understood, results indicate that it brightens skin, especially sun-induced hyperpig­mentation, in half the time when compared to other brightening complexes. The use of peptides, such as oligopeptide-34 to control pigmentation, may very well be the newest and most effective approach to treating hyperpig­mentation. And if safety studies are a good indicator, they are a lot safer for the end user.

The future

Dealing with issues of pigmentation will undoubtedly continue to be a focus in the skin care arena, and there is certainly no shortage of products designed to address these issues. But the most important question is: Which are effective and safe to use? Although hydroquinone continues to be the only authorized OTC whitening agent in the United States, there are numerous studies that question its safety, which accounts for its being banned in most countries throughout the world. Fortunately, the pressure remains on pharmace­utical houses, cosmetic companies and even raw material suppliers to find safe and legal alternatives to hydroquinone. This past decade has seen a myriad of new brightening agents, all promising to reduce hyperpig­mentation while enhancing skin luminosity and, although most have fallen short of hydroqui­none’s ability to whiten skin, new cocktails of brighteners are now available that are close in performance and a lot safer to use.

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CELEBRITY SKIN SECRETS YOU SHOULD STEAL 🎌 Look Younger Than Your Age

Bee By The Sea Natural Products

 Our body butter helps lock in hydration and restore suppleness on even the driest skin. 

•Apply a quarter-sized amount to skin and work in small sections. Continue using small amounts to help the butters and oils completely absorb.

•Sea buckthorn - moisturizes, promotes skin regeneration and helps improve skin elasticity

•Honey - helps retain moisture to keep skin hydrated, protects skin from environmental damage and improves skin texture

•Shea butter - Nourishes, moisturizes and helps combat dry, flaky or itchy skin

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The Toronto Esthetician

Typical oil cleansers work great for preserving natural skin oils but don’t wash off completely, leaving your skin feeling greasy. Epicutis® Oil Cleanser uses two special botanical based fatty acids that when in contact with water create a mild cleansing action to leave the skin feeling soft, cleansed and not greasy

We redefine how you clean your skin by using gentle yet effective oils to remove unwanted dirt, makeup, and oil without stripping your skin of what it needs

Meadowfoam Seed Oil and Sunflower Seed Oil help unclog pores while melting away makeup, dirt, sebum, and sunscreen – creating a combination of powerful responsibly sourced botanicals to clean your skin the right way

Feel free to book an “undecided appointment” through my website where we can go through a consultation & perform a treatment same-day!

Alternatively, you can DM us or text 647-863-2339 with some pictures of your skin

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#torontoesthetician #torontoacnespecialist #acnespecialist #beforeandafter #skincarejourney #chemicalpeel #facialtreatment #esthetician #torontomedspa

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